Roberto Gallieni

Biography

Roberto Gallieni (1929–1991) was an Italian mountaineer and engineer. He was one of the three survivors—out of a party of seven—of the 1961 Frêney Pillar tragedy in the Mont Blanc massif, alongside Walter Bonatti and Pierre Mazeaud. Initially, Gallieni was a client of the high-mountain guide Walter Bonatti; the two later became friends and regular climbing partners. Historians note that in 1961, Bonatti was working as a guide in Courmayeur, and Gallieni engaged his services as a client. Key dates in his mountaineering career include: 1959 – February 26. Andrea Oggioni, Carlo Mauri, and Roberto Gallieni climbed the south face of the Dent du Géant via the Burgasser/Leisz route, completing the second winter ascent. The climb was exposed and difficult, requiring excellent physical fitness. The majority of the ascent involved aid climbing, with two sections rated grade 6. All necessary anchor points were already in place. – Géant-Rochefort Group – Mont Blanc Massif. 1959 – August 5, 6, and 7. Andrea Oggioni, Roberto Gallieni, and Walter Bonatti set out from the Bivacco della Fourche (3,680 m) to pioneer a new route on the Central Southeast Spur (4,465 m) of Mont Maudit, approaching from the Brenva Face; they achieved the first ascent (the Bonatti Route). This varied and interesting route, traversing both rock and mixed terrain, is partially exposed to rockfall. The original climbers used 50 pitons; only five remain. Vertical gain: 750 m. Difficulty: TD- (Very Difficult minus), with sections rated IV and V. – Mont Maudit Group – Mont Blanc Massif. 1960 – August 3 and 4. Walter Bonatti (guide) and Roberto Gallieni established the Bonatti Route on the southeast face of the Chandelle on Mont Blanc du Tacul. It is a magnificent classic crack climb on perfect rock. Its favorable aspect and easy glacier access help explain why it is frequently repeated. The existing fixed gear (pitons and a few old nuts) allows for free climbing on almost all sections (though the hardest part—the sixth pitch—is unpleasant, it can be bypassed via a fine pitch on the southeast face); 50-meter ropes are useful. Vertical gain: 170 meters; route length: 220 meters. Difficulty: TD+, V, V+, one section of VI- and A1, and one section of A2 (up to VIII- free). – Mont Blanc du Tacul satellites – Mont Blanc du Tacul group – Mont Blanc massif. July 10–16, 1961. One of the greatest alpine tragedies occurred during an attempt at the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney. After two bivouacs forced by bad weather at the base of the Chandelle, the two rope teams—three Italians and four Frenchmen—began their descent together, enduring two more bivouacs in the storm. Antoine Vieille, Robert Guillaume, and Andrea Oggioni died of exhaustion on the Frêney Glacier, and Pierre Kohlman on the Châtelet Glacier. Walter Bonatti (who led the retreat), Roberto Gallieni, and Pierre Mazeaud survived. – Italian buttresses – Mont Blanc massif. Roberto Gallieni died in a car accident on May 15, 1991.